When it comes to metal, many may not think of glitz and glamour. But when it comes to jewelry making, it’s a different story. San Francisco’s own local jewelry designer, Shana Astrachan, shares her perspective and talks about her love for all things crafty.
By: Stephanie Cafano
Just a few blocks off the 24th Street BART stop, in the Mission District, lies the pop-up shop of jewelry designer Shana Astrachan. Don’t be fooled by the minuscule space of the Urban Interstice Gallery. Astrachan’s designs are carefully decorated throughout the gallery, as well as little gadgets and trinkets that show off the artist’s creative personality. From tiny, simple metal stud earrings to shiny, bright-pink sequined necklaces, there’s no denying that the artist possesses a unique and edgy style that can draw any lover of jewelry into her shop.
“You came at a good time,” Astrachan says, as she fiddled behind a set of curtains to find a chair.
The door to the shop is left wide open, allowing a nice breeze to filter in. Wearing a dark, navy blue dress with a blue cardigan and her own complimentary jewelry pieces—a very Anthropologie look—the artist gets situated behind her very clean, organized desk.
As well as her acclaimed website—which automatically links viewers to shop for her designs—the petite artist has accounts with boutiques and jewelery stores across the Bay Area.
“I [also] show my more artistic pieces in gallery exhibitions,” says Astrachan. “I just had one of these pieces come back from the National Metals Museum in Tennessee. That was kind of an honor to show in the museum. It was a major exhibition.”
From gallery exhibits to being featured in several jewelry making books to her own pop-up gallery shop, there is nothing that holds Astrachan back from doing it all when it comes to her passion.
When did you first become interested in jewelry making?
It was a combination of two things. Not sure if they happened around the same time, or which was first. I grew up [with] an aunt owning a jewelry gallery, and it was contemporary at the time. Her gallery was in Boston [on Newbury Street]. I was always around jewelry. Also, when I was very young, probably around 15, I found a whole bunch of jewelry tools in my basement and some books. I started experimenting on my own.
You went to college in Maine. What was your major/program like?
I went to Maine College of Art in Portland, Maine. It was a small arts school. It had a strong metals program. I studied under Tim McCray, who is the god of jewelry education. My other teachers were also great influences. It was a small, very tight program. In my class and major, there were about seven of us.
Where do you get your inspiration?
Alexander Calder, probably one of my earliest influences. Mary Rank, she was part of jewelry making in the ‘50s. She has this very cool, stylized, [yet] simple jewelry that I’m really drawn to. Wendy Ramshaw, whom I did a workshop under couple years back, is a big influence on my work. I tend to get my influences from other designers. I always hear a lot of other people who make jewelry say ‘oh, I never wear jewelry.’ They are [mainly] studio makers. I feel like I am combination of both, of fashion and design. My aesthetic influences are very simple and early modern.
Why San Francisco?
For me, being right out of art school, I did want to be in a city with other artists. San Francisco has a really rich history of early jewelry studio work.
What is your favorite memory of being a designer?
It happened to be this past year. I am part of a critique group. I’ve been a part of it since I moved here. This past year we did an exchange with an outside group [based out of London]. They came here for a couple days; we got to go there for a couple days. We met great people and got to be a part of a great symposium that they put together. It was pretty exciting.
I know you love playing with different materials in your work, but what are three materials you cannot live without?
Metal. I guess I would have to start with. I feel like there are a million. [Sighs] Because I really like to play with materials. The mohair silk material that I use for my felting I really love; it can take on so many forms. And the sequins, for these fancy pieces [takes an example off the wall], because I find them so fun and easy to wear.
Any other art you like to do?
A little bit of everything. I’m a little obsessed with all hand-made items and crafts. [Giggles] I do sew. I’m a long time-knitter and recently converted to being obsessed with crocheting. I do a lot of crocheting, and I’m hoping to work that technique in with some of my jewelry. I like the idea of making. I [also] have a little obsession with interiors. I’ve helped friends with decorating their spaces.
I also have another side profession that I’ve taken on over the last few years, which balances well with my jewelry work. I do some freelance work as a make-up artist. It’s mostly doing commercial work, but I’ve done a little film work too. It’s a nice balance. I do that and then go back to my studio. [Laughs]
What’s a typical workday like?
My studio days are long. [Laughs] There are so many different aspects. Right now I’m doing almost everything on my own, from the bookkeeping to the marketing to the invoicing to the ordering materials to the actual making. I usually start the day off with a lot of emails, getting back to people. By the time I actually get into the studio and work on the jewelry, time just goes by so fast.
I do have my first intern working with me, one day a week. I think it will help me become more productive. She’s a sculpture student at the Academy of Art University.
What are your plans for the future?
In a sense, I am really happy doing what I do right now. It seems like a really good balance for me. I would definitely like to have a few more accounts, selling to more places. I would like the opportunity to work with other materials. I’m always thinking up some new lines of jewelry. I’d be happy to collaborate with other artists. I’d love to be hired by another line and do some work for them. I’m open to all kinds of possibilities.
Any advice for those who are interested in jewelry making?
Some of my advice is more practical, on the business side. If you are looking to make it into a full-time business, advise a business plan, come up with a budget, and be realistic. There are a few times over the years where I’ve gotten way in over my head. [Laughs] So knowing and being practical in the financial portion of it is really important. And for artists, that may not be a strong point. I got a business license right away [at the age of 21], so I could start selling to stores. It was a lot of baby-steps.
Pull Quotes:
“I’m a little obsessed with all hand-made items and crafts.”
“I really like to play with materials.”
Pictures from www.shanaastrachan.com
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